ISLAMABAD: French mountaineer Mathieu Maynadier, along with Pakistani climber Muizzuddinn, has successfully pioneered a new route on Spantik (7,027 meters), known locally as Golden Peak, located in the Karakoram range.
The ascent took place between June 2 and June 7, marking a significant achievement for both climbers, with Muizzuddinn becoming the first Pakistani to lead such a major ascent.
The newly established 1,800-meter route, named “Zindabad” (Long Live), was completed under challenging conditions and is graded M5 A1 with an 80-degree incline. The climb is being recognized as one of the most remarkable feats of mountaineering in Pakistan this summer.
Both climbers faced significant obstacles during the expedition, including waiting out poor weather for over 10 days at the base camp. Their efforts paid off, however, as they managed to set up higher camps at 5,200m and 5,800m.
After five days of battling fresh snow and unstable terrain, they came close to reaching the summit but were forced to turn back due to a dangerous wind slab. Despite this setback, they celebrated their success in opening the route as a landmark achievement for Pakistan’s mountaineering community.
The descent from the mountain took a grueling 36 hours, with the climbers making a bivouac at 5,800 meters.
For Muizzuddinn, the successful opening of this new route represents a step towards his larger goal of becoming Pakistan’s first UIAGM-certified mountain guide. He is planning to begin his training in France this summer, with the goal of obtaining certification by 2029.
Spantik has a rich history in mountaineering, with significant climbs such as the French-Slovenian ascent of the Golden Pillar in 2000. Maynadier, a passionate supporter of Pakistani alpinism, has made several first ascents and ski descents in the region.
The achievement not only celebrates the success of these two climbers but also shines a light on Pakistan’s growing presence in the global mountaineering scene, with more climbers expected to take on the challenges of the Karakoram range in the coming years.
